Day 9 The Hassen II Mosque of Casablanca and final post

Our last official day in Morocco is spent in Casablanca.  We got to the world famous Hassen II Mosque just for its 2pm opening for people to visit the inside.  It is only open between the Muslim five prayer-times a day.  It is, unarguable, one of the largest mosques in the world.  The mosque in Mecca being the largest.  In our sources it has been rated 2nd, 3rd, and 7th.  No matter, it is huge. Dimensions dwarf the St. Peter's Basilica. The Mosque is 660 feet by 3,300 feet.

It was build between 1986 and 1993 for around $750,000,000 to commemorate King Mohammed V by his now reigning son.  Its minaret is the tallest religious structure in the world coming in at 689 feet. Also, its massive roof is retractable; sunshine during day prayers, starlight during night prayers.

All materials are indigenous to Morocco except the Italian chandeliers.  Over 10,000 artisans and craftsmen were involved in its construction.  A monumental piece of architecture.

These are below the mosque, prior to prayer, water pours out from above to allow for the ritual washing below prior to prayers.

An underground pond designed for ritual washing.

So concludes our memorable trip to Morocco. We discovered a deep culture influenced by tribe and faith.  Much of who Moroccans are has been brought from other lands as the country has been at the crossroads of trade for millennia.  Other aspects of their life are rooted in heritage and pride.  Geography has challenged and invigorated their culture as well.  All the above have energized a people and in a modern world they continue to survive and thrive.

A shout out to Scot and Janet, our traveling companions.  Third-world travel can be both exciting and challenging.  You were definitely up to the task, we had a great time exploring with you guys.  

Thanks.

Charlie and Gloria

Day 8 Heading west to the coast and Essaouira

A pleasant drive to the coastal town of Essaouira.  Some real history here.  First settled by the Carthaginians in the 5th century BC.  They considered it one of the best harbors on the western African coast.  The Berbers upped the ante around the first century AD with the "purple trade".  The dye from the intertidal murex shells provided the purple in all Roman Senatorial togas.

This was quite a sight an Argan tree full of goats.....Tree goats, I guess.

Finally, the Moors, French and Portuguese were in and out of Essaouira during the Middle Ages and thereafter, primarily as a major trade route that originated in central Africa in Timbuktu delivering goods both north and eventually to the New World.

Also, at one point, 40% of the population were Jewish.  We heard on our trip that Moors/Muslims have a saying, "A community without Jews is like meat without salt".  Interesting.  Oh, "modern history"?  Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens wrote songs and smoked dope here.

Finally, the Shawarma Sweepstakes.  Those who have followed past blogs, know we are adding to our country-list for the World's Best Shawarma.  We are up to 6 or 7 countries now and we are adding Morocco to our "life list".

For the un-initiated, A Shawarma is a Levantine Arab meat preparation, cooked on a huge spit all day, then sliced and placed in a pita type bread.  Lamb, beef, chicken depending on the country and resources.  5 stars is the best, few Shawarma's earn a 5 star.  The last 5 star was one I had off of a push cart in Oxford England.

Moroccos's Shawarma was discounted from a 5 star for the following reasons:
--Minus .5 points because it was chicken not lamb and wrapped in foil, not paper.
--Minus .5 stars  because they were cutting tile in front of the food stand and tile dust was blowing in       where we were sitting.
--Plus .5 stars because of the price, 40 Dirham, ($4) for the Schwarma and chips, (french fries).
--Minus .5 points because it was sauced with mayonnaise/ranch dressing, not tahini sauce.
--Minus .5 points because of the cat I had to fend off the whole time I was trying to eat the                          Shawarma.

Total: 3.5 stars.  Average in score, but the cat made it a memorable meal.

Another bonus photo.  Below is a child's bed clothes, (pajamas).  "Baby Iman", not sure what to make of this.  Another box was "Baby Oussama".  I had to look that one up.  I think he is a famous soccer player.....I think.

Anyway, I'm not worried.  Why don't we have "Baby Obama", or "Baby Pope Francis"?  Instead we have "Baby Batman, Spongebob, Darth Vader" pajamas.

Day 7 The Medina and souks of Marrakesh

Another great riad in Marrakesh. As typical in the Medinas, we go down several cramped 6 foot wide alleyways and knock on a door.  When it is opened, you never know what to expect in the central courtyard.  This one didn't disappoint.  Orange trees growing in the center, the side rooms and guest rooms were more modern then the other riads we stayed in, but just as comfortable.  4-star all the way.

Small, typical meat market.  The cats knew where to hang out.  My guess is to not get any "smaller cuts" of meat in Marrakesh.

Today, we had a local guide, Mohammed III, (our third Mohammed!) to guide us through the maze of the Medina and introduce us to the "town square".  Town square defined as the second largest in the world, just behind Damascus in Syria, and with over 50,000 vendors!!  We questioned Mohammed about the number and he stood by it.  We didn't visit them all, but the square is huge with endless alleyways, "rabbit holes".

(Thanks Wikipedia)

Our first stop of the day was the Koutoubia Mosque.  Again, almost a thousand years old.  Its minaret is one of the tallest at 253 feet in height.

On to Bahia Palace, a few pictures below.  Mostly of tombs.  Interesting footnote.  The sultan at the time had 4 wives.  Each had their own room.  Rather large and roomy, but once betrothed, they were never allowed to leave that room for the rest of their lives.  Royalty had its price.

Janet and Gloria in one of the wive's rooms

The Jemaa el-fnaa marketplace, as mentioned above, was next.  Anything Moroccan, (and cheap Chinese knockoffs) can be purchased here.  Lots of entertainment as well as bargaining opportunities.  This is how most of the world still lives.

This is how one is directed to the correct restroom in a Muslin country.  Men on the left, women on the right.  And don't forget two things when you go.  1) your own toilet paper, no guarantees commode-side.  And 2) some coins (10-20 cents) to pay the female attendant, who is very attentive.

Day 6 Hollywood?! NO, Ouarzazywood! and Ksar ait Ben Haddou

Our day started with a visit to Ouarzazywood, Morocco's answer to Hollywood.  A brief list from Wikipedia:

• 2010: Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time, directed by Mike Newell
• 2010: Sex and the City 2, directed by Michael Patrick King
• 2011: Captain Phillips, directed by Paul Greengrass
• 2011: Hanna, directed by Joe Wright
• 2013: The Bible, produced by Roma Downey and Mark Burnett
• 2014: Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation, directed by Christopher McQuarrie
• 2014: Son of God, produced by Roma Downey and Mark Burnett
• 2015: A.D.: The Bible Continues, produced by Roma Downey and Mark Burnett, starring Juan Pablo di Pace, Babou Ceesay, Richard Coyle and Vincent Regan
• 2015: American Sniper, directed by Clint Eastwood
• 2015: Spectre, directed by Sam Mendes

They have been filming in Morocco since the 1930's  Indeed, Russell Crowe is returning in a couple of months for another film.  Although not Universal Studios, it was a fun tour to look behind the scenes and learn how they create and recreate scenes for the movies.  In the distance was a huge, complete castle/fort we couldn't visit.  Producers like Morocco because it is cheaper to film here.  Morocco like the producers because it keeps a large part of the local town working as set builders and extras.  A win-win.

Our guide told us that with 30 extras and a little computer technology, you can 

turn this scene into a set that holds a thousand people!

This outdoor set is being rehabbed.  New coat of paint for the sphinxes.  The background is a bit trashed.  Shooting in Morocco is great since it rarely rains.  However, when it does, ANY rain is a bit hard on the plaster, plywood and styrofoam sets.

Next is the World Heritage Site of Ksar ait Ben Haddou.  Another incredible site to to walk through.  Our guide and family actually live in the town and invited us into his home.  Only eight families live in Ksar.

We walked through the town all the way to the top lookout.  Again, this was build a thousand years ago.  BTW, the first gladiator scene in "The Gladiator" was filmed just in front of Ksar.  Many postcards posted everywhere of the movie.

We continued thru the High Atlas Mountains.  The other day were just in the Atlas Mountains.  These were spectacular.  Reminded us of the highest peaks in Montana.

Don't ever, ever complain that your work is too hard.  These two gals were hauling corn stalks up the road.  They had already walked a long ways and they had a long way to go still.

We see these livestock trucks frequently.  Cows are below and an assortment of animals and freight up above.  Redefining "dog-pile":  the driver stopped, hopped up on top and 'resorted' all his goats.  They were all piled up and on top of each other.  He picked them up and got them in order, kinda like organizing sliced bread, thus sorting out the "goat-pile".

Finally, a rarity.  Few, really no, women in Morocco like their pictures taken.  A real cultural thing I guess.  These gals however, when asked, said no problem!  The one in the middle spoke flawless English, plus, she said, Arabic, French, Spanish, German and Japanese!

Day 5 Rissiani town and Todra Gorge

A camel ride back to Merzouga, we clean up, have breakfast then head back to Mohammed's home town of Rissiani, (misidentified yesterday).  There we have a tour of the town and the market.  Of the many town tours we have had over the years, this one seemed the most authentic and real.  Not only the traditional vege and meat market, but we also got to see where they sell live goats, burros and horses.  No Costco or Safeway needed here.

Mobile orange and tangerine salesman

There ever present spice stands 

'Stop' in Arabic

Next we head out to a fossil museum.  HUGE business in Morocco.  Ammonites, trilobites, orthoceras; you name it from the Ordovian, Cambrian, Orthocerian time periods, (I think).  They have quarries full of these ancient sea creatures that they slice and dice up for everything from individual plates to pendants, to tables, sinks, even saw a toilet made out of fossils.  Nothing goes to waste. (No pun intended).

The final stop of the day was the Todra Gorge.  Again an unexpected site.  Deep and narrow, and we were the only ones there.  Great taking a holiday off-season.  Also, we were late enough where all the vendors had already gone home for the day.We spend the night in Ouarzazate.

 BONUS PICTURE.....

For you faithful followers, below is a picture of Gloria in a meat market with a camel head!

Day 4 Traversing the Atlas Mountains and into the Sahara Desert

If Mars and Nevada had a baby it would be the Atlas Mountains of Morocco.

 

Today we left Fez for an 8 hour drive to Merouga and the beginning of our camel trek in the Sahara Desert.  A long but eventful drive.  First, it is beautiful.  As we ascended into the Atlas Mountains, it started to look more like the Alps and less like a desert.  As we neared the higher elevation we drove into a town that indeed looked like it was in the Alps.  Steep roofs, lots of edelweiss, (cue up “Sound of Music”), Morocco’s take on Bavaria! 

Mohammed, our guide, told us that when winter hits in February, the snow comes down and Moroccan’s drive up to this area to go skiing!

We continue on to Merouga, Mohammed’s home town!  We drop a huge chandelier off, we bought in Fez, at his apartment that we had crammed in the back of our car with our luggage and headed out to the drop-off point for the camel trek.

We get there close to dusk, mount up, and off we go on our camels.  Led be Ali an hour and a half later, in the moonlight, we arrive at our destination and are met by Hassam, who greets us with “Moroccan Whiskey”.  Since this is a Muslin country we didn’t know if this was Moroccan Moonshine or what.  It turned out to be mint tea……  Hassam laughed.

 

Gloria and Janet with Ali our camel driver

Our "room"

A dinner of chicken tagine was excellent, than we sang around the campfire and headed to bed.  It was cold!  Gloria and I had 7 blankets, Scot and Janet had 6, plus many layers of clothes.  Camel blankets are so heavy with 7 on board it is hard to move, you just sink lower in your bed as you pile them on.  We did sleep well and woke up the next morning to a hike and a sunrise.  Incredible.

Day 3 Fez

Fez is a northeastern Moroccan city often referred to as the country's cultural capital.  It is primarily known for its Fez El Bali walled medina, with medieval architecture, vibrant souks (market places) and old-world atmosphere.

We spent the day wandering (with our guide) the narrow alleyways of the 1300 year old medina.  Cultural overload to see not only the merchants; but within the different souks, were madrasas, (Muslim schools), mosques, (Fez has over 200!), museums, and high-end rug, textile and ceramic ships.  A rat-maze for humans, and an occasional overloaded donkey!  Lots of pictures today......

Some of the alleyways were this narrow.  

In an earthquake you are the filling in an Oreo cookie.....

that's been stepped on.

This in the courtyard in our riad in Fez.  The lady on the right is French, she owns the riad.   She speaks no English, the guy on the left speaks French, Arabic and English, (he probably speaks Berber, and who knows how many other languages as well).  We are looking at the map of Fez to plan our our day.

The architecture of Fes has changed little in a thousand years, (except for the gazillion dish antennas).      The Direct TV satellite is to the south.

The width of the alleyways in the medina is approximately one and one half donkeys.  

They don't stop; you move.

The little guy on the right is praying with his dad.

Much of what we see was carved plaster.  It is carved when it is still damp.  

You carve quickly and in sections.  A real artistic achievement.

Fes is famous for its tanning pots.  They have been tanning leather this way for over a thousand years.  Only a small section was in use, the majority are being rebuilt, and cleaned out!?

 Check Wikipedia for what they look like normally.  

Below is a great description of what normally goes on when the pots are in use. 

At the Chouara Tannery, hides are first soaked in a mixture of cow urine, quicklime, water, and salt. This caustic mixture helps to break down the tough leather, loosen excess fat, flesh, and hair that remain on them. The hides are soaked for two to three days after which tanners scrap away excess hair fibers and fat in order to prepare the hides for dyeing. The hides are then soaked in another set of vats containing a mixture of water and pigeon poop. Pigeon poop contains ammonia that acts as softening agents that allows the hides to become malleable so they can absorb the dye. The tanner uses his bare feet to knead the hides for up to three hours to achieve the desired softness.

Finally, we stopped a a shop that made scarves and tablecloths, by hand, on looms.  Very informative, but they were also a bit pushy to buy their scarves.  Nice scarves but when you have a drawer full of nice scarves from other countries that aren't being used, we passed.  His last attempt was to dress us up and take our picture.  It didn't work.  Nice picture though!

Finally, if you are following this blog daily, tomorrow is a transit day south, to the Sahara Desert, with a camel trek and overnight camping in the Desert.  So, no blog for a day or two.  

(No shower either)